The thing about Joye batteries is, they use an FET controlled switch. This switch acts like a relay and takes the brunt of the load which is a good thing, but the downside is, they are lossy, meaning there is a voltage drop on the output voltage while under load.
So for this reason, a typical big battery mod even at the same 3.7 volts will outperform a stock Joye battery regardless of the type of e-liquid being used.
For the Joye 510, I do not recommend going over 5 volts. But at 5 volts, you will most likely need to drip instead of relying on a filled cart, reason being, at this higher voltage, the atomizer will become a juice hog, and will typically use more juice than can be wicked out of the cart, hence the need to drip.
There are many different types of mods being made for sale these days.
Some are very pricey. I am a strong believer in the KISS method. Therefore I would recommend getting a mod that is all mechanical, the first thing to wear out on many mods is the switch, as the switch is typically the weakest link in the chain.
As for 3.7 volt mods vs. 5 volt mods. For a long time I used only 5 volts on a Joye 510, mainly because I didn't like the performance from stock joye batteries, and during this time I thought that by stepping up to 5 volts was the only way to get the increase in performance I desired.
Since then, and for a long time now, I have changed this line of thought and now use only 3.7 volt battery mods. They perform well and to my liking, and I do not have to drip all the time.
There are a couple of mods I would recommend.
First, and especially for the newbie e-cig user would be the SD (Screwdriver.)
The Screwdriver E-Cig-MKII. The Worlds Best Vapourising Device. / Totally Wicked eLiquid / electronic cigarette eliquid nicotine fluid products
The screwdriver is designed to work with a 901 atomizer, so to use it, with a Joye 510 you will need to get an adaptor.
Adapter for connecting a DSE901 or KR808D-1 battery with a Joye510 atomizer
Or you can order this kit which comes with 2 901 atomizers, plus 2 510 atomizers along with an adaptor.
The Silver Screwdriver E-NIC-MKII + FREE 2 x 510 Atomizer Conversion kit
The 2nd battery mod to recommend would be the Mako, the one that mcquinn pointed out earlier. This is a good mod with a mechanical direct contact switch that should last a long time, but the draw back here is that the Mako requires some knowledge and some tweaking to get it to work properly. It is designed to be configured to work with several different types of batteries and atomizers, each configuration requires some adjustments and tweaking to be done by the user. Therefore, I do not recommend it to the newbie user, unless the user is mechanically inclined, and is willing to follow instructions.
Both the Screwdriver and the Mako use mechanical direct contact negative terminal switches. But the Screwdriver is more plug-n-play friendly.
I currently am using both the Mako and the Screwdriver. My mako is configured to work with Joye 510 atomizers and 14650 batteries.
I am also running a Joye 510 atty on my Screwdriver with a 901 to 510 adaptor.
Of these two, they perform equally as well, but the Mako having more mahs when configured with 14650 1600 mah batteries, (The battery lasts longer on a single charge.) Still I get a good days use out of both. The SD comes with 18350s and are rated at 900mah.
Of these two, the Screwdriver, is easiest to hold, due to it's ergonimic shape.
Now to touch on the e-Go, First off, the e-Go is not a mod, as it is an OEM product. It is a Joye 510 only with a bigger battery. The cone on the e-Go serves two purposes, first is aesthetics, it makes it look cool and covers the uglies of the connector. Secondly with my experience in using an e-Go the cone also gives it somewhat of an artificial boost in performance, by choking off some of the air intake, thus making it run richer than normal.
I have owed several of the e-Go batteries both in 650 mah and 900 mah versions, they perform better than stock, but when comparing them side by side with my other 3.7 volt mods, I get better throat hit and flavor production from my SD or Mako. The visible vapor production seems to be equal among the three, but that is where the comparison stops.
I might also note that of these e-Go batteries of mine, none are working anymore. I have not had the time to look in to this matter, but it is my inital belief that the USB battery charger went south and shorted out the FET switches or the PCB in these e-Go batteries and it cost me three batteries before I realized where the problem layed
So for this reason, and for the reason that my other mods outperforms the e-Go in ways that are to my liking, I will not waste my money on any e-Go replacements. Still it is a good device, when it works, and I am sure my breakdown is not something that happens every day.
This reply is getting lengthy as usual, as I am known for being long winded.

So, just to touch on one more aspect here, jopo is right about the type of e-liquid being used. That is PG vs. VG. VG will produce a thicker, heavier, longer lasting fog than PG will. I make my own DIY e-liquid, and I use a 50/50 or a 60/40 mix of PG/VG to obtain a proper wicking viscosity and produce lots of vapor. For stealth vaping stick with straight PG.